This month we are chatting all about the new active ingredients in Juliette Armand. Each week we will take deeper look into one of the new technologies JA is using.
One thing to look at is how all those active ingredients get into the skin. One thing to understand is that the concentration of an active isn’t relative, the delivery system is. Because without a good delivery system, actives simply sit topically and ultimately evaporate away no matter how expensive they are – The outermost layer of the skin (Stratum corneum) is a barrier in itself and to get actives from products to penetrate is difficult.
Products have to be soluble (weather they dissolve better in water or oil.) Which is giving both hydration and lipid protection and has a bio affinity to the skin barrier. The most traditional delivery method of actives is encapsulation, which prevents their premature interaction and means that, when they reach where they need to go, they are performing with optimum efficacy. Liposome encapsulation is a sphere-shaped liposome, closed, fluid-filled vesicle that encapsulates an ingredient and delivers it to a targeted area of the skin and penetrates the skins lipid barrier. Next you have nanotechnology uses particles up to 1000 nm in size and may reverse aging at a cellular level due to their tiny size.
Going one step further is the newest technology, Cosmetic Drones…
Think this drone not this drone
Cosmetic drones are an advanced delivery system using peptide activity to target receptor cells moving within the skin and only activate once it finds its target cell maximizing efficiency. It does this once it has already passed through the skin barrier. Sound complicated? Lets break it down a little bit more.
How drones work – Lets take a look at how cosmetic drones are changing skincare.
- Penetrate the skin barrier using Ligands, (a high affinity peptide) which are selective and minimize non-specific interactions with other cells. Capsules bind exclusively to the desired receptor or Target cell
- Ligands also act as an active ingredient when interacting with a specific receptor cells.
- Upon binding the drone penetrates inside the target cell, and the active ingredient is released steadily over time exactly where it needs to be also minimizing irritation
- Each drone has a specific mission with a specific target and the efficacy is ensured at really low concentrations compared to other systems where the active ingredient needs to be at higher concentrations to ensure some activity due to the secondary interactions on its way to the target cell.
What this means in your skincare is a lot more using a lot less! You will find the cosmetic drone technology in all the Juliette Armand Skin Boosters range. Specifically Cosmetic drones:
Anti- Aging – Found in the Opsis Eye Cream
Hyalufiller – Found in the Chronos Hydra Correct Cream
Myocept – Found in the Thavma Hydra Lifting Cream
The Skin Boosters range has always been a firm favorite for its high active and quick results, can you imagine now with the power of Cosmetic Drones, the results you will achieve?!
As you can see Juliette Armand is always looking to use the most effective and cutting edge technology for your skin. In doing so it allows your skin to look and feel it’s very best. By now you should be quite comfortable with delivery systems for the skin. Now we are going to talk about fermentation. Now before you start thinking there is a new beer or wine facial out there (that sounds deliciously interesting) we are going to take you through a similar process but for active ingredients rather than food. Fermentation for food is a process of preserving food while making it nutrient dense usually in brine.
BioFermentation is a process of breaking down the molecular structure of active ingredients into smaller particles.
Why this is so effective is:
- Active ingredients are more rapidly absorbed by the skin
- Creates additional skin loving amino acids and antioxidants
With this technology Juliette Armand is able to use actives in cosmetics that they couldn’t dream of before, actives to revolutionize the serums range. We will focus on a few here over the next couple of weeks.
Also know as the sunshine vitamin because the human body when exposed to sunlight synthesizes it. Vitamin D contributes to skin cell growth, repair, and metabolism. It optimizes the skin's immune system and helps destroy free radicals But too much sun exposure causes premature aging. Found in our all-new ProVital D3 serum in the form of Provital D3 it is transformed into Vitamin D in the Epidermis(Skin). Provital D3 has the following benefits for the skin:
- Reduces skin irritation and enhances skin barrier function.
- Vitamin D3 regulates keratinocyte and differentiation
- Anti-microbial activation
- Protection from UV Irradiation
Now we should start with a disclaimer here, Bio-Placenta is not derived from human or animals. This biomimetic active contains five different growth factors:
- EGF – a polypeptide developed to speed wound recovery and activates hyaluronan synthase 2—an enzyme involved in manufacturing hyaluronic acid that restores skin hydration.
- IGF-1, - considered the most important growth factor due to its function to activate cell growth and protein synthesis.
- acidic FGF and basic FGF - important players in the regeneration and proliferation of skin cells
- VEGF - stimulates the formation of new blood vessels and increases vascular permeability to allow a greater delivery of oxygen and nutrients into the extracellular matrix to facilitate repair.
- As well as an amino acid (Acetylated Glutamine) and vitamin B9 with synergic effect on the skin. Found in our all-new Bio-Placenta Serum, Its components are similar to a human placenta.
How it aids the skin:
- Stimulates cell growth and synthesis of fibroblast collagen,
- Helps heal wounds and it improves the skin’s elasticity.
- Anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, moisturizing and rejuvenating properties.
- Recommended to be used after chemical exfoliation.
Ceramide 3B - Primarily the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum, whose major lipid classes are Ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, provides the protection of the skin. Ceramides contribute to the regulation and layout of the stratum corneum’s lipid layers, which is the key to the formation of the skin barrier, protecting it from external factors. They moisturize and rejuvenate the skin and improve its elasticity.
Ceramide 3B is used in the following products, Hydra Repairing Serum, Ceramide Serum and Hydra Repairing Cream. By using clearly solubilized ceramides on the skin, the lipids in the stratum corneum get arranged. This is the key to form the skin barrier as well as offering the following benefits:
- Skin barrier enhancement, protecting from environmental aggressors
- Skin rejuvenation
- Elasticity enhancement
Vitamin B9 - Folic Acid
Folic acid that is derived from bacterial fermentation (Biofermentation) offers multiple effects on the skin. It stimulates the metabolism of proteins and strengthens the immune system. It improves and reduces skin imperfections by stimulating cell growth and it offers moisturizing and anti-histamine action. Why this is so exciting is now instead of consuming foods or tablets containing folic acid, you can now apply also to the skin giving multiple benefits, found in the Folic Acid (B9) Serum:
- Reduces wrinkles through cell growth stimulation
- Prevention of UV-induced damage
- Anti-histamine (anti-allergy) activity on human leukocyte.
- Anti-porphyrin. Reduces pimple-causing porphyrin.
Peony Flower Extract
The name originates from Greek myth about Paion, a physician to the Gods. He used peony used to cure many illnesses. Peony activates the natural defense mechanisms of skin, toning and firming the epidermis. Juliette Armand uses the extracts from the petals for the anti-aging and balancing of pigmentation. Found in the all-new Glow C 12% Serum, this active ingredient benefits include the following:
- Inhibits Melanin production
- Inhibits Tyrosinase gene expression
- Anti-oxidative effect
- Non-irritant natural extract
Which of these ingredients derived from Bio Fermentation are you most excited to get your hands on and try?
Check back next week for more on the revolution of Juliette Armand.
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